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First aid for parrots - pets

 

Unfortunately, accidents can - and DO happen, so it's at all times a good idea to be prepared! While accidents as a rule be the source of noticeable injuries, illnesses are often kept well clandestine by birds. In nature, if you're sick you pose a danger in assembly your whole flock vulnerable to predators, so parrots have befall adept at masking signs of illness. This is one aim that it's vital to have a "well bird" check-up annually. Needless to day, once a bird is viewing noticeable signs of illness, he's often very sick and needs direct vet attention. First Aid is future to help you get by until you can see the vet, or in treating minor injuries.

It's advantageous to have a "hospital cage" for emergencies - a smaller, by a long shot portable cage where you can segregate a sick or injured bird and by far move him to a warm, quiet, area of your home. It's advisable to have a quarantine area as well - for new birds advent into the home, as well as sick birds convalescing from an infection. This area be supposed to be well separated from the rest of your birds to avoid air-borne transmission of germs, as well as those broaden by address contact.

Some of the signs of likely illness include: more time on cage floor, discussion and live less, fluffed feathers, lack of appetite, drinking more water, personality changes (such as attractive bitey or not deficient to come out of the cage), tail bobbing, puffy eyes, sleeping on both feet with head tucked, dangling wings, sneezing or coughing, "clicking" in chest, vomiting, diarrhea, mucky vent, etc. I won't go into detail diseases here, but optimistically you get the broad idea - if equipment are "different," get to the vet! Other tribulations comprise cracked blood nap or egg binding.

It's a good idea to put all together a first aid kit (Your Parrot Place has a nice one for sale!) Include:

Eye and skin wash

Styptic powder

Corn starch

Bland wipes

Fiber Swabs and balls

Eye dropper

Assorted bandages - gauze, adhesive, vet wrap

Scissors

Latex Gloves

Tongs or hemostats

Betadine or iodine swabs

Glue tape

Penlight

Heating pad and/or lamp

Hydrogen peroxide

Pedialyte (Electrolyte elucidation for babies)

Hand feeding formula and syringes

Phone add up to for vets and poison control

Generally, with any illness or injury, amputate the bird to a sanatorium cage and put him in a warm, quiet, dimly lit room (bathrooms can work). Bestow fresh water (and Pedialyte if needed). Feed beloved foods (healthier clothes you know he'll eat) plus warm foods like cooked rice or oatmeal. IN addition, spray millet is often enjoyed by minor birds. If he's not consumption well on his own, offer some warm food with your fingers or a spoon. If need be, you may have to mix up hand feeding formula and give by cup or syringe. If you've kept your bird in the habit of intake from a spoon or cup, this will be easier. DO NOT use over the counteract remedies from pet stores. It's too much of a guessing game. I know a Pionus who became psychotic after being given an OTC bird "remedy" and would not stop beating about her cage. A barely chamomile tea can help the bird relax and red tea is good for digestive upsets. If you're customary with herbal remedies, you can carefully use those exclusive of causing harm to your bird. NEVER give antibiotics not including deliberate your bird essentially has a BACTERIAL infection (and which bacteria!)

Broken blood fine hair (or those by coincidence clipped) can be hard to stop bleeding. Do not use styptic powder on skin or soft bandanna - only on flow of blood nails. Otherwise, use corn starch as a coagulant. If the blood plume (immature quill with live blood supply) won't stop bleeding, it has to be pulled or the bird can bleed to death.

A note on egg binding: If a hen is on the cage bottom, fluffed up and straining, she may be "egg bound". Put her in a warm, humid place (like the bathroom). You can rub some vegetable oil about her vent. Egg bound hens can die comparatively quickly, though, and if the egg does not pass inside a number of hours, she needs to get to the vet at once (a good diet with extra calcium will help avert this. )

So get in the habit of inspecting your birds on a daily basis, and being alert for signs of distress. Read up on diseases and gain a basic awareness of illness in birds. "Bird proof" your home, avoid toxic fumes and unsafe toys. Have a first aid kit and rest home cage available. No what's "normal" for your bird and act briefly if equipment don't seem right. Find a good AVIAN vet and see them annually. Be sure your house and your bird's cage and play areas are as safe as possible. Feed the best diet you can to guarantee your birds best achievable health. Wouldn't it be nice if your first aid kit never gets used?!

The First Aid kit free at Your Parrot Place (under accessories) contains most of the fundamentals such as: Styptic Powder, Latex Gloves, Eye Skin Wash, 1"x6 yd Sterile Bandage, Scissors, Locking Forceps, Iodine Swabs, Antibacterial Towelettes, 2"x2" Gauze Pads, Filament Swabs, Glue Tape, Hand Wipe, Crisis Info Card, Directions, and Case. Perishables, like hand feeding formula, be supposed to be stored in the freezer and replaced every six months.

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Your Parrot Place
Marilu Anderson, Bird Diet and Activities Consultant, (503) 771-BIRD. Marilu is a common contributor to the Your Parrot Place Newsletter. YourParrotPlace. com - Only the Best for Your Parrot!

Free Parrot eBook
140 pages of parrot tips, information, sustenance advice, protection and more!http://www. yourparrotplace. com/ebooks/ypp2004ebook. htm


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